A Day in Fes

This weekend one of my Fulbright besties, Talia, and I took a day trip to Fes (not Fez - you will be corrected). It’s about a three-hour train ride from Rabat, which gave us plenty of time to catch up, look out at the changing landscapes, and eat the snacks we packed. There’s something really relaxing about train rides here — they make travel feel easy.

When we arrived, we found a small café for breakfast and ordered a traditional spread: msemen (a layered pancake), bread, eggs, olives, honey, and fresh orange juice, with mint tea of course. It’s the kind of breakfast that reminds you how delicious simple food can be when it’s made well.

After that, we headed straight into the medina. The old city is a maze — narrow alleys, high walls, and no real sense of direction, but somehow everything works. Our first stop was the Dyers Souk, where bright threads in every color hung from lines above us. Watching the men rinse and hang the dyed thread, you could see how much practice and patience go into the work.

A view in the Dyers Souk - colorful, freshly dyed threads hangin above us.

Next was the Chouara Tannery, probably one of the most famous spots in Fes — and for good reason. It’s also one of the smelliest. At the entrance, someone handed us sprigs of mint to hold to our noses as we climbed to the viewing terrace. Below, workers stood in stone vats filled with natural dyes, treating and coloring leather by hand, just as people have done there for centuries. It was fascinating to watch, even if we didn’t linger too long.

A view of the Chouara Tannery from above. Each vat in this photo was filled with a different dye.

We kept walking until we reached Al Quarawiyyin University and Mosque, believed to be the oldest continuously operating university in the world. You can’t go inside, but even from the outside, the tilework and archways are impressive.

In another part of the medina, we found the metalworkers. You can hear them before you see them — the steady sound of hammers shaping brass and copper into trays, lamps, and jewelry. It’s loud but strangely rhythmic, and you can see the care that goes into each piece.

Later, we took a quiet break at Jnan Sbil Gardens. It’s green, calm, and full of palm trees — a nice contrast to the noise of the medina. We also stopped by the Royal Palace of Fes, where the golden doors and detailed tilework are definitely worth seeing, even if you can’t go inside.

The entrance of the Jnan Sbil Gardens.

By evening, we were ready for dinner — a quick bite that hit the spot — before catching the train back to Rabat. It was a long day, but a really good one.

Fes is busy, colorful, and full of history. There’s a mix of chaos and craft that makes it feel alive in every corner. Traveling with Talia made it even better — exploring new places is always easier (and more fun) when you have someone to laugh with when you inevitably get a little lost.

Known as the "Blue Gate" - one entrance to the medina.

Want to see more photos from my day in Fes? You can find them here:

My Adventures